Val Venosta Italy
From 4,500 feet above sea level at the Passo di Resia, this valley, drained by the Adige River, stretches first south and then east to the beautiful town of Merano. Most of the Alto Adige valleys cut deep into the mountains, so their modest height above sea level does not give a good idea of the height of the surrounding peaks. At the southern end of Val Venosta are the massicci (massifs) Ortles and Cevedale, some 12,000 feet above sea level, while at its northern end Palla Bianca and Similaun are more than 11,000 feet above sea level. .
The Val Venosta is remarkably wide and green, with a dozen small centers where you’ll often find medieval churches and castles (we follow the valley down and east to Merano). Each town offers a selection of hotels and guest houses, most of which are consistently reliable in terms of quality and price. In Curon Venosta, near the northern end of the valley, the Stocker restaurant is a fine example of Alto Adige cuisine and courtesy, moderately priced, offering a good selection of regional dishes and specializing in venison.
Five kilometers (3 miles) from Malles Venosta, near the town of Burgusio, is the 12th-century Abbey of Monte Maria, an imposing complex that was the highest above sea level of any Benedictine abbey in Europe. Although largely rebuilt in the 15th century, the abbey retains some of its original features, including a fresco from 1180. Both the monastery and its chapel are open to the public. A good restaurant in Malles is AI Moro (Tel: 047381222; closed Tuesday and November), informal and cheap, and next to the very nice Hotel Plavina, which also has a garden and indoor pool. Just below Malles is the town of Glorenza, still surrounded by its medieval walls (rebuilt in the 16th century).
High above the town of Sluderno, the Castello di Coira, built in the 13th century, is the most interesting of the Val Venosta castles, both for its excellent state of preservation and for the variety of precious objects it contains (open from March to October 10). :00 AM to noon and 2:00 to 4:30 PM; closed Mondays) see the armor room in particular. The church of San Sisinio in the town of Sisinio also dates from the 13th century; the castle of Coldrano near Silandro dates from the 16th century.
About 10 miles (16 km) further along Route 40, the Schloss Kastelbell in Castelbello has been precisely restored to its 13th-century appearance. The interior is closed for restoration but is scheduled to reopen in the spring (call 0473624193 for details). A good hotel in Naturno is the Sunnwies, and just 2 km (1 mile) from Naturno, on the road to Passo Resia, you will find the Wiedenplatzer Keller, an excellent moderately priced restaurant rich in Alto Adige specialties (Tel: 047387431; Tuesday closed). In this valley, perhaps more than others, the contrast between the lush greens of the lower slopes and the snow-capped peaks above is particularly striking. In spring, this region offers a totally magical spectacle of blossoming trees, as it is an area dedicated mainly to the cultivation of pears, apricots and, especially, apples, of which Alto Adige is the largest regional producer in Europe.
As you approach Merano from the west, the valley widens and numerous vineyards begin to appear alongside orchards. Merano’s mild landscape and climate have attracted tourists and vacationers since the 18th century, first the Austrian nobility, then the Viennese and European bourgeoisie. An important characteristic of its climate is the lack of humidity and the mildness of its temperatures (it is the northernmost area of Europe where palm trees can grow). To its luxurious 19th century hotels, Merano has added a large number of new accommodations, and is now booming with winter and summer tourism due to the splendid ski facilities set up on the surrounding mountain slopes.
The medieval city, on the right bank of the Passirio River, is centered around the Gothic Via dei Portici. Nearby are the Castello Principesco, a castle built in 1470 and furnished mostly with authentic antiques (open 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.; closed on Sundays), and the Duomo, a fifteenth-century Gothic building. century with a curiously crenellated façade. Along the Passirio river there are two pleasant promenades, called Passeggiata d’Inverno and Passeggiata d’Estate (Winter Promenade and Summer Promenade); the first faces south, the second north.
The tradition of the restaurant in Merano revolves around the internationally famous chef Andreas Hellrigl. Unfortunately, Mr. Hellrigl decided to retire in 1990 and his Villa Mozart restaurant and hotel is now open only as a high-end cooking school, offering week-long courses to students and foodies from all over the world (Tel: 047330630; Fax: 0473 211355). Exceptionally good restaurants are the expensive Andrea (via Galilei 44, Tel: 047337400; closed Mondays and most of February) and Flora (via dei Portici 75, Tel: 0473 31484; dinner only; closed Sundays and February).
The former is spot on in decor and service, while the latter is a little less formal but also a bit more affordable, serving salmon, trout, venison, and excellent pasta (a seasonal specialty is the Pfinfferle mushroom-stuffed ravioli).
In addition to restaurants, some of the best accommodation in the region can be found in and around Merano. Among the truly notable first-class hotels are the Palace, on via Cavour, with a large garden and swimming pool, and the Castel Labers, a couple of miles out of town on the road to Scena (with a swimming pool and garden). conspicuous).
Another outlying hotel is the Castel Freiberg, a converted 14th-century castle 8 km (5 miles) south of Merano in the city of Freiberg. The medieval atmosphere is still strong here, despite the modern conveniences, and the views are incredible. Good walks can be had in the surrounding hills.
About 3 km (2 miles) north of Merano and a short distance from the town of Tirolo is Castel Tirolo, built in the 12th century by the Counts of Venosta, who later became rulers of the entire region. It was in 1363 that the last of his descendants handed over their possessions to the Austrian Habsburgs, who would rule until 1918 (in 1420 the capital was moved from Merano to Innsbruck).
Although it is still inhabited, the castle can be visited from March 1 to October 31 from 9:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. and from 2:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. (closed on Mondays); Guided tours are available every hour. The most interesting thing here is the Romanesque chapel, with its 14th-century frescoes; the main entrance door, with sculptures from the 12th century; and the Throne room, which also offers a magnificent view.
The main road, Route 38, leads southeast from Merano directly to Bolzano.
