Waterproofing a Basement: Do-It-Yourself Tips and What NOT to Do
Two things to do BEFORE spending money – First thing: Check your downspouts and gutters. A clogged gutter or broken downspout can be the bane of any basement. Imagine pointing a fire hose at your basement wall…yes, it’s that bad. Make sure your downspout is about 5-10 feet from the house and beyond the point where your slope drops. If you can’t stand his appearance, take your strongest son, take a shovel and have him buried; because taking it off is not an option. Second thing: check your range. If your yard slopes towards your house (even in one area), all the rainwater will run right into your house and puddle against your foundation… even if the wind is blowing against it. You do not believe me? Ask Murphy. If you have a problem with the slope of your sidewalk or driveway, there is a process called “slab lifting” that will raise these areas by pumping material under them.
Are you still getting water? Alright, so it’s time to call in the professionals. There are two ways water can get into a basement (and I’m not including a leaky water pipe). The first thing you have to do is determine, “Where did that damn water come from!?!” Your two options: Through the wall or through the floor. If you don’t have Irish blood, you could be coming in for both. Sometimes it’s easy to spot, but SOMETIMES it goes in right where the floor and wall meet and it gets a bit tricky. Go downstairs during a storm and watch him come in. Look for signs of water or significant moisture on the wall or floor. Keep in mind that if a puddle forms on the floor, it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s from there (you’d be surprised…)
If you are entering through the wall, count your blessings, well, sort of. Don’t get me wrong, it still stinks, but the fix is much less expensive and doesn’t require breaking up your concrete floor. If it’s coming in through your flat, well, keep religion out of it.
Wall water/dampness: about 90% of people with problems (this percentage is not based on any real statistics, just my experience)
Sometimes, it’s been there since you moved in 10 years ago and you’re sick of the puddle on the floor. Sometimes it came up randomly and incomprehensibly, like the Katy Perry fame. Either way, it’s time to put an end to it (we’re back to talking about the water on the wall… I think)
Damp on the wall: If you only have a tiny bit of moisture that causes a musty smell, FIX IT YOURSELF. There’s no point in spending thousands of dollars for a waterproofing sales rep to sell and sell you something he doesn’t need. Grab a bucket of dry oil-based paint from your nearest Lowe’s, Menards, or Home Depot store and apply a thick coat to the wall.
Wall Crack / Wall Water – There are a couple of ways to resolve this, depending on the severity of the problem. One way is to use the aforementioned oil-based drylock paint. But note that this is still “Paint”. It will hold water through a couple of heavy storms, if you’re lucky. Some companies recommend “epoxy injection” and they work very well… for about 7 years. The problem with epoxy is that it crystallizes, and as changing weather temperatures cause it to expand and contract, it will crack again, leaving you with the same headache. Worse still if you finished your basement and have to tear down the drywall and expose the moldy insulation. Another “solution” is to excavate the entire exterior wall and apply a layer of tar along the footing. This thin layer crystallizes in about 5 years and you have to do it all over again. “But wait a second, we’re in the 21st century and that sounds inefficient and ignorant.” Yes it is. But some people still do, especially new construction companies. It’s cheap and outlasts your home warranty. My favorite way is with bentonite clay (Dr. Seuss careful). Bentonite clay is one of the oldest products on the market and has been used in structures such as the vacuum dam and when oil rig drillers encounter an underground lake. The way bentonite works is that it absorbs as much water as it can handle and then rejects the rest. For example: a thin layer is spread on the bottom of artificial lakes to prevent water from penetrating into the ground. Now take this principle, flip it over, and then stick it to the outside of your wall. Creates a waterproof membrane barrier that blocks water. The best part is that it can be injected into the wall outside of the foundation through rods the size of a silver dollar, going every two feet along the outside… That’s right, no digging required. Other advantages: prevents water from entering the wall from the OUTSIDE, which helps increase the longevity of the wall; it never fully crystallizes, so you won’t have any problems within 5 years; helps block radon; it will become pliable (yeah yeah I know) every time the water hits it so it will actually embed itself into any future cracks that might create a problem. The process is called “bentonite clay injection”. Unfortunately, not many companies do this because the equipment is very expensive and may require a second application if there are large voids below the floor; which means the company pays twice the costs for labor, gas and materials (the owner usually only pays for the initial treatment and the rest is under warranty).
Hydrostatic pressure (Water rising from the ground) – The unlucky 10%
When it comes to hydrostatic pressure, there is only one way to figure it out. A system of drainage tiles. Whether it’s an indoor or outdoor system, there’s one thing to keep in mind: they’re all the same. Every company will try to sell you how their system is better, but at the end of the day, it’s just an underground pipe leading to a sump pump or drain field. This system is not ideal because it involves cutting the floor. Ultimately, you are jeopardizing the strength of your foundation. It’s not like your house is going to collapse or anything like that, but you should avoid it if possible.
So how do you choose a company? The only thing this is based on is online reviews and time in business. Keep in mind that every business will get a bad review from some landlord who called them at midnight when a pipe in the ceiling was leaking and got angry about having to pay a service charge, but for the most part they are quite reliable. Time in business is crucial because the average waterproofing company only lasts about 15 years. What if you try to sell your house and they close (voiding the warranty), or they close and you develop a minor problem that would be easy to fix but ends up costing you $2500? Exactly…spend a little more now and stick with the trusted company.
