Nature at its finest: Gavi experiences rewound
The name sounded quite out of the ordinary, but the experience was truly extraordinary. Once there it was pure ecstasy, which I doubt can be narrated in a few words. This place in Kerala called Gavi is a hit with tourists, mostly foreigners who prefer a vacation away from the hustle and bustle of modern life. We left Trivandrum early in the morning by car. Deviating from Adoor, we took the route that touches Pathanamthitta and arrived at Vandiperyar at noon. The road forks into a forest area from Vandiperiyar through the Konnimara estate from here.
The issue of Mullaperiyar, a bone of contention between Kerala and Tamilnadu, was in the foreground when we arrived at the Vallakadavu checkpoint before entering the forest zone. The banner that screamed ‘welcome to the land of death’, send chills down our spines. This was so because the issue had political overtones. Fortunately the entry point was not blocked and we were given passes to move on. Trouble and haunting views faded into insignificance as the breathtaking beauty of the forest unfolded on both sides of the road. We stopped in many places to enjoy the atmosphere that only dense forests can give. Elephant dung could be seen in many places near streams along the route. After traveling twenty kilometers through the forest, we arrived at the Green mansion, a lodge run by the Kerala Forest Development Corporation. The lake in the foreground was pristine and inviting. As we had booked a package that included food, accommodation and sightseeing tours accompanied by a guide, there were no hassles in this regard.
Our stay was in tents in the middle of the forest. The tents made with ecological material were our homes during the stay. After a refreshing and sumptuous lunch, we cautiously set out. The extensive meadow on the edge of the lake turned out to be an ideal place to rest and enjoy the peaceful surroundings. As promised, our guide met us at three in the afternoon and took us to a waterfall on the other side of the lake in a rowboat. Hidden among rocks and vegetation, it was a refreshing experience. Fortunately for us, the visitors were few on this day, largely due to the Mullaperiyar problem. After a great bath in the natural settings, we return to the lodge. This was followed by a trekking tour to the hills on the opposite side of the lake. The view from the top was breathtaking as we spotted mountain goats, wild buffalo, and horn spikes. The flight of the horn-beak was a sight to behold. A surprise awaited us when our guide pointing to a column of smoke told us that it was the Sannidhanam, the abode of Swamy Ayyappa. Many pilgrims walk towards Sabarimala through these forests. The light went out as the sun began its fiery descent over the hills. This was a glorious sight, a sight so familiar yet so different to behold in different parts of planet earth. I felt humbled and relieved of all the pressures as we became one with nature.
Tiger sightings are not common despite the fact that they coexist with other species in this natural refuge. Our guide told us about his experience of seeing a tiger some years ago in this same place. The big cat, unaware that it was being watched, stretched out in the sun for nearly an hour before walking away. As we walked back to the lodge, our guide gestured for me not to speak. In a gorge on the side of the road lay a viper. We waited as he slipped through the undergrowth. It was very dark when we got to our hostel, but the lights around us helped us find our way. Once inside the store, we refresh ourselves and have dinner in the restaurant. Before long, the electric fence around the tent came to life, preventing animals from entering the area. We could hear a series of screams emanating from the adjoining forest area. From time to time you could hear the trumpeting of elephants accompanied by the sounds of bamboo breaking. Spending the night in a forest was truly an exhilarating experience, that too when the moon was in its glorious prime.
The next day provided more excitement when we went for a jeep ride to Pathanamthitta along the forest road. This is another route, although risky but picturesque, that will take you to Gavi from Pathanamthitta. A KSRTC bus travels about a hundred kilometers between Pathanamthitta and Gavi. This walk offers incredible views and has attracted many tourists. Recently, a Malayalam film with his story woven around this journey was released in crowded houses across Kerala. This has also helped make Gavi a highly sought after destination. We were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a male elephant, some antelope, and a lion-tailed macaque high up in a tree during the trip.
Our package lasted twenty hours and it was time to say goodbye to Gavi. At noon and a half we packed up and left for Vandiperiyar, back to Trivandrum. The scenes near the checkpoint in Vallakkadavu contrasted with the experiences we had before. The slogan he was shouting at the supporters of a political team blocked our way for some time. When the road cleared and the car rolled forward, we couldn’t help but wonder. Will there be people without nature? ‘Nature will surely prosper without humanity ‘.
